Checking for Rust in UK Vans Guide
Rust is the biggest killer of campervans in the UK. Salt on winter roads, coastal damp, and poor underseal cause structural rot that is expensive or impossible to fix. Here is how to check a van before buying.
Why UK Vans Rust
- Road salt: UK roads are salted from November to March. Salt accelerates rust by 10x.
- Coastal humidity: Vans parked near the coast rust faster than inland vans.
- Poor drainage: Water gets trapped in the van's chassis and box sections.
- Drill holes: Builders drilling into the floor for seats or plywood lining create water entry points.
Van-Specific Rust Points
Ford Transit
- Rear wheel arches: The top of the arch rusts from inside. Tap with a screwdriver — solid metal is fine, crumbling means the arch is gone.
- Step well: The cab footwell area. Water pools here. Lift the rubber mat and feel for soft spots.
- Rear door step: The metal lip at the bottom of the rear door opening. Common rust point.
- Chassis crossmembers: The rear crossmember (under the bumper) rusts from the inside out. Look for bubbling paint.
Mercedes Sprinter / VW Crafter
- Front cab steps: The area where you step up into the cab. Very common.
- Side door sill: The lower edge of the sliding door aperture.
- Rear spring mounts: The chassis mount points for the rear springs.
- Battery tray: Under the driver's seat. Water sits here.
Fiat Ducato / Citroen Relay / Peugeot Boxer
- Windscreen surround: Rust bubbles appear at the bottom corners of the windscreen.
- Front wheel arch liners: The plastic liners trap mud against the metal.
- Rear crossmember: Same as the Transit. Common structural failure point.
VW Transporter (T5/T6)
- Lower door seams: The bottom edge of the sliding door and front doors.
- Scuttle panel: The area under the windscreen wipers. Water pools here.
- Rear wheel arches: The inner arch (behind the plastic trim).
How to Inspect a Van for Rust
- Take a screwdriver. Tap suspect areas. If the screwdriver goes through, the rust is structural.
- A small magnet. Rust bubbles under paint mean the metal has thinned. The magnet will not stick as strongly.
- A torch. Shine it into the chassis box sections, under the wheel arches, and behind the trim panels.
- Crawl underneath. Look at the chassis rails, the fuel tank straps, and the exhaust mounts.
- Check the MOT history. The DVSA MOT history website shows advisory notes. Look for "corrosion near structure" or "corrosion in prescribed area."
Surface Rust vs Structural Rust
| Type | Appearance | Fix | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Surface rust | Orange/brown dust on the surface | Wire brush + rust converter + paint | £20, DIY |
| Scale rust | Flaking metal, bubbles under paint | Cut out + weld new metal | £100-500 per panel |
| Structural rust | Crumbling chassis, holes in crossmembers | Requires professional welding | £500-2,000+ |
What to Walk Away From
- Rust on the chassis crossmembers (structural)
- Rust on the suspension mounting points (structural)
- Rust that has caused an MOT failure for corrosion
- A van that has been welded before (look for rough welds)
- A van that smells damp inside (water ingress = hidden rust)
Prevention
- Waxoyl or Dinitrol underseal (£50, DIY) applied every 2 years
- A jet wash under the van after every winter trip
- Wheel arch liners (fitted, not missing)
- A dehumidifier in the van during winter storage
- Wash the van regularly in winter (road salt is corrosive within days)
Verdict
The Transit rear wheel arches and the Ducato windscreen surround are the most common rust failures. Check these areas before buying any van. Surface rust is fine. Structural rust is a dealbreaker.
