Deadlocks are the single most effective security upgrade for a campervan. Unlike your van's factory locks (which can be bypassed in seconds with a jiggler tool or relay amplifier), a deadlock adds a mechanical locking mechanism that's independent of the van's central locking system.
This guide covers the two main options for UK vans — Thule deadlocks and Armaplate — what they do, how they differ, and which to choose.
How Deadlocks Work
A deadlock is a separate lock barrel mounted through your van's door skin. When you turn the key, it pushes a hardened steel bolt into the door's latch mechanism, physically preventing the latch from retracting. Even if a thief breaks your window and presses the interior door handle, the door won't open.
Deadlocks are independent of the van's electronics. They work when the battery is flat, when the central locking is broken, and when a thief is using a radio relay to amplify your key fob signal.
Thule Deadlocks
Thule (formerly handled by the now-defunct Van Deadlock Company in the UK) makes the most popular deadlock system for vans.
How they work: A replacement lock barrel that replaces your existing door handle lock on the cab doors. The Thule mechanism pushes a steel rod into the latch. The key has a distinctive dimple pattern that's harder to pick than standard pin-tumbler locks.
Fitment:
- Ford Transit Custom (2013+): Front cab doors only
- Mercedes Sprinter (906/907): Front cab doors + sliding door
- VW Crafter (2017+): Front cab doors
- Fiat Ducato / Peugeot Boxer / Citroen Relay (2014+): Front cab doors + sliding door
- VW Transporter T6/T6.1: Front cab doors
Cost: £120-180 per door (fitted). The rear doors and sliding door are often an extra £80-120 each.
Pros:
- OEM-quality finish — the lock barrel blends into the existing handle
- Hardened steel internals — resistant to drilling
- British-made (the original manufacturer was UK-based)
- Thule has a UK service centre for replacements
Cons:
- Thule stopped manufacturing new deadlocks in 2024. Stock is limited. What's available on Amazon UK and eBay is old stock, and once it's gone, it's gone.
- The barrel can seize in winter if you don't lubricate it annually (use PTFE dry lube, not WD-40)
- Thule keys are expensive to replace (£25-40 per key from a specialist locksmith)
Armaplate Deadlocks
Armaplate is a South African company that makes heavy-duty security products for vehicles. They entered the UK van market in 2024 and are now the main alternative to Thule.
How they work: A surface-mounted lock mechanism that attaches to the inside of your door, not a replacement of the external handle. You drill a hole through the door skin for the key barrel, and the locking bolt engages with a reinforced strike plate on the door frame.
Fitment:
- Ford Transit Custom: All doors including rear barn doors
- Mercedes Sprinter: All doors
- Fiat Ducato / Boxer / Relay: All doors
- VW Crafter: All doors
- Ford Transit (full size): All doors
Cost: £90-140 per door (DIY) or £150-200 fitted.
Pros:
- Readily available in the UK — several distributors carry stock
- Covers all doors, not just cab doors
- DIY-friendly — the kit comes with a drilling template and can be installed in 2-3 hours with a hole saw
- Strike plate is reinforced with a hardened steel insert
- Cheaper than Thule
Cons:
- More visible — the external barrel is a silver disc on your door skin. Not as discreet as Thule's handle-integrated design
- The key is a standard dimple lock (easier to pick than a high-security cylinder, but still much better than factory locks)
- Surface-mounted internal mechanism can rattle if not installed tightly
Side-by-Side Comparison
| Feature | Thule | Armaplate |
|---|---|---|
| Cost per door (fitted) | £120-180 | £150-200 |
| Availability | Limited (discontinued) | Good (current production) |
| All doors available | No (cab only usually) | Yes |
| DIY install | Difficult (needs specialist) | Moderate (drilling template) |
| Visible from outside | No (integrated into handle) | Yes (separate key barrel) |
| Rust resistance | Good (stainless internals) | Good (zinc-plated) |
What to Install
If you can find Thule deadlocks in stock for your van model, get them — they're the cleaner installation and the dimple key is more secure. Call van conversion specialists (not Halfords) and check stock.
If Thule is unavailable (which it increasingly is), Armaplate on the cab doors + a steering wheel lock is the best budget combination. The steering wheel lock (a Disklok, £70-100) adds visual deterrence that's more effective than most people realise.
Fitting Deadlocks Yourself
Armaplate is DIY-able. Thule is not (the barrel needs precise alignment with the handle mechanism).
For Armaplate:
- Remove the door card (trim panel). Watch a YouTube video for your specific van model — clips break easily on older vans.
- Tape the drilling template to the door skin. Centre-punch the hole location.
- Drill a pilot hole, then use a 22mm hole saw (comes in the kit) through the outer door skin only.
- Mount the external barrel and internal lock mechanism. Bolt together through the door skin.
- Mark and drill the strike plate position on the door frame.
- Test the lock before reassembling the door card.
Tools needed: Cordless drill, 22mm hole saw, centre punch, T25/T30 Torx bits, trim removal tools.
Time: 2-3 hours for the first door, 1 hour for subsequent doors.
Beyond Deadlocks
Deadlocks are one layer of a security system. A comprehensive approach:
- Deadlocks — mechanical barrier (this guide)
- Steering wheel lock — visual deterrent (Disklok or Stoplock Pro)
- Pedal lock — prevents the pedals being used (Milenco or Bulldog)
- GPS tracker — recovery after theft (Tracker or Biketrac for vans)
- Window etch — marks panels with your registration (free via Police-approved centres)
The deadlock + steering wheel lock combination stops 90% of van thefts. Most thieves go for vans with factory-only security because they can be in and driving in under 90 seconds.
Lubrication
Deadlock barrels need annual lubrication, especially in UK winter conditions:
- Use PTFE dry lube (not oil or WD-40, which attracts dust and gums up)
- Spray into the keyhole and work the key in and out 10-15 times
- Do this in October before winter sets in
- If the barrel seizes, warm the key with a lighter (not a blowtorch) and try again gently. If it still won't turn, call a locksmith — forcing it can snap the key
