Drop-Down Bed Mechanisms for Campervan Conversions
A drop-down bed (also called an elevating bed or raising bed) mounts above the living area and lowers for sleeping. It is the best way to maximise floor space in a campervan — the entire van remains usable during the day, with no permanent bed taking up space.
How It Works
A drop-down bed consists of:
- A bed platform (typically 18mm plywood, 1.85m x 1.30-1.40m)
- A mechanism (struts, cables, or electric motors)
- Mounting brackets to the van's roof crossmembers
- A mattress (foam, 80-100mm thick)
- A manual or electric lowering system
The bed stores flush against the ceiling when not in use and drops to 40-50cm above the floor for sleeping.
Types of Mechanism
1. Electric Drop-Down (Premium)
Electric beds use small 12v motors to raise and lower the platform. Most units include a rocker switch, remote control, or both.
Example products:
- Reimo Raise Bed: German-made, £1,200-1,800. The gold standard for campervan drop-down beds. Features: electric motor, safety stop, memory foam mattress included.
- SusiDrops: £900-1,300. Austrian brand, simpler design, good for DIY installs.
- Eriba Drop Bed: £800-1,200. Sportier, designed for VW Transporters but adaptable.
Pros: Convenient, one-button operation, smooth movement, integrated safety features. Cons: Expensive, adds 25-35kg, requires electrical wiring, can fail without power.
2. Manual Crank Drop-Down (Mid-Range)
A winding handle turns a cable that raises and lowers the bed. No electricity required.
Example products:
- Reimo Manual Bed: £600-900
- Crafthaus Bed Lift: £500-800
Pros: No power needed, lighter than electric, simpler to install, reliable. Cons: Takes 30-60 seconds of winding, awkward if the crank handle is hard to reach.
3. Gas Strut Drop-Down (Budget/DIY)
Gas struts assist raising the bed. You pull the bed down manually, and the struts help push it back up.
Example:
- DIY build using 800N gas struts (4-6 struts, £15-25 each)
- A locking mechanism holds the bed up
Pros: Cheap (£80-150 in parts), lightweight, simple, works without power. Cons: Requires more effort to lower, locking mechanisms can fail if not properly designed, fewer safety features.
Installation Requirements
Structural Support
A drop-down bed must attach to the van's roof crossmembers — the structural ribs that hold the roof panel. The bed weighs 30-60kg (including mattress and mechanism + person = 100-150kg load). This weight is suspended from the roof, so the mounting points must be solid.
Mounting methods:
- Through-bolt to crossmembers: Recommended. Drill through the roof crossmember, use M8 or M10 bolts with large washers. Seal all holes with Sikaflex.
- Welded brackets: Best but requires welding skills and access.
- Clamp brackets: Some kits use C-clamps that grip the crossmember. Acceptable for lightweight beds but not for full-time use.
Ceiling Clearance
The bed must sit flush against the ceiling when raised. This requires:
- 80-100mm clearance from ceiling to roof (for the bed platform + mattress)
- The bed mechanism brackets sit in this space
Most van ceilings are 1.70-1.95m high. The bed lowers to 0.90-1.00m from the floor. Your headroom below the lowered bed is about 0.85-0.95m — enough for sitting but not standing.
DIY Drop-Down Bed Guide
For competent DIYers, a manual gas-strut bed is achievable:
Materials needed:
- 18mm birch ply, cut to 1.85m x 1.30m
- 6x 800N gas struts (length: 300mm extended, 100mm compressed)
- 4x hinges (piano hinge or heavy-duty gate hinge)
- Locking latch (cam latch or barrel bolt x2)
- 2x support cables (steel wire, 3mm, for safety backup)
Assembly:
- Build the bed frame from 18mm ply with a 50mm edge frame for stiffness
- Attach gas struts to the roof crossmembers using steel brackets
- Attach struts to the bed platform with mounting brackets
- Install the locking latches on the sides of the bed to hold it up
- Install safety cables (redundant in case struts fail)
Total cost: £150-250 (plywood £60, struts £90, brackets £30, hardware £30)
Safety Backup
Critical: Every drop-down bed needs a secondary safety system. If the primary mechanism fails while you are asleep, the bed falls. Two solutions:
- Safety cables: Steel cables rated to 200kg+, attached from bed to roof at each corner
- Locking pins: Manually inserted pins that hold the bed up when not in use
Never rely solely on gas struts or electric motors.
Mattress Options
| Mattress | Best For | Price | Weight |
|---|---|---|---|
| HR35 foam 80mm | Budget, comfort | £80-120 | 8-10kg |
| Cold foam 100mm | Premium comfort | £120-180 | 10-12kg |
| Latex 80mm | Best support | £180-250 | 12-15kg |
| IKEA Morgedal 80mm folded | Cheap option | £50 | 6kg |
The mattress must be able to flex for raising/lowering. Foldable foam mattresses with a hinge line work best.
Conclusion
A drop-down bed is the best space-saving solution for campervans. Electric mechanisms are convenient but expensive (£800-1,800). Manual crank mechanisms offer the best balance of cost and convenience (£500-900). DIY gas strut beds are cheapest (£150-250) but require careful engineering.
Our recommendation: Buy a Reimo manual crank bed if the budget allows. It is well-engineered, reliable, and has proper safety features. For a budget build, a DIY gas strut bed with safety cables is acceptable.
