DIY Thermal Curtains for Campervans — Materials, Track Systems & Cost Guide

Thermal curtains are one of the most effective upgrades you can make to a campervan. They stop condensation on the windscreen, reduce heat loss through the cab windows (the biggest thermal weak point in any van), block light for sleeping, and provide privacy without the cold-metal feeling of silver screens.

A professionally made set of cab curtains costs £150-£300. A DIY set costs £30-£80 and takes an afternoon to make if you have a sewing machine. This guide covers the materials, track systems, and techniques that work best in a van environment.

What Thermal Curtains Do

Three functions, in order of importance:

Thermal insulation: A van's windscreen and cab windows lose more heat than the insulated walls and roof combined. Glass has an R-value of approximately 0.2 (compared to approximately 2.0 for insulated van walls). Adding a thermal curtain with an air gap creates an insulating layer with an effective R-value of approximately 1.0-1.5. On a winter night, this is the difference between waking up at 5°C inside and 10°C inside.

Condensation management: The warm, moist air inside a van meets the cold glass surface and condenses. Thermal curtains create a barrier that keeps the warm air away from the glass. The curtain gets damp instead of the window — and curtains dry faster than windscreen pooling water that drips onto your dashboard.

Light blocking: A blackout lining blocks 99% of external light. This matters for summer sleeping (northern UK locations have civil twilight until 11pm in June) and for privacy when parked in lit urban areas.

Fabric Options

Outer Fabric

The outer layer faces the van interior. It needs to look good, resist mould, and be easy to wipe clean.

Cotton canvas (10oz): Classic choice. Wipes clean, breathes (reduces mould), available in many colours. Weight: approximately 300g/m². Cost: £8-£15/m. Best for: living area curtains where appearance matters.

Polyester/cotton mix (65/35): More durable than pure cotton, less shrinkage, dries faster. Cost: £6-£12/m. Best for: cab curtains that get frequent handling.

Microfibre (automotive-grade): Used in OE vehicle curtains. Wipe-clean, stain-resistant, UV-stable. Cost: £15-£25/m. Best for: vans in full-time use where curtains get heavy daily wear.

Thermal / Interlining Layer

The middle layer that provides insulation. This sits between the outer fabric and the lining.

Thinsulate (scrim-backed, 100g): The best option. 10mm thick, flexible, washable, fire-resistant. R-value approximately 0.8. Cost: £12-£18/m. Available from: Dunelm (as "thermal curtain lining"), eBay, or specialist suppliers (Shawfords, John Lewis haberdashery).

Wadding (polyester, 100g): Cheaper (£5-£8/m) and available everywhere. Less breathable than Thinsulate — can trap moisture. R-value approximately 0.5. Best for: budget builds or curtains in dry climates (less relevant for UK vans).

Fleece (blanket-weight): The cheap option. Use an IKEA fleece blanket (£4-£6) cut to size and stitched into the curtain. Not as durable as Thinsulate but surprisingly effective. R-value approximately 0.6.

Reflectix or space blanket layer: Adding a layer of Reflectix (bubble-wrap foil insulation, £8-£15/m) between the interlining and the outer fabric adds approximately 0.3 R-value. The reflectivity works best with an air gap — stitch the Reflectix so it has a 5-10mm air gap on one side.

Lining

The lining faces the window. It must be moisture-resistant and easy to wipe.

Blackout lining (coated polyester): The standard choice. Coated on one side with a black acrylic layer that blocks light. The coating makes it somewhat waterproof — good for cab curtains that contact the damp windscreen. Cost: £5-£10/m.

Thermal blackout lining: Same as blackout lining but with a thin foam layer bonded to the back. Adds approximately 0.2 R-value. Cost: £8-£12/m.

Aluminium-coated lining (like a car sunshade): Reflective surface faces the window, reducing solar gain in summer. Cost: £10-£15/m. Best for: vans where summer heat is a bigger problem than winter cold.

Track Systems

IKEA KVARTAL System (£15-£25)

The most popular track system for campervan curtains. IKEA's KVARTAL wire system uses a tensioned wire between two brackets. The curtain hangs from the wire on plastic gliders.

Pros: Cheap (£15 for a 2m kit). Easy to install (screw brackets into the van ceiling, tension the wire). The wire is thin and discreet. Curtains slide smoothly. The system can be curved around corners (use the corner glider accessory). Cons: The wire sags over time (retension every 6 months). The plastic gliders break after 2-3 years (buy spares). The maximum wire length is 2.5m without a centre support.

Best for: Living area curtains where the track is hidden behind a pelmet and the curve radius is large.

Everbilt Metal Curtain Track (£20-£30)

A sturdier option than IKEA. Everbilt metal track with nylon gliders. Available from Screwfix and Toolstation.

Pros: Metal track is more durable than wire. Supports heavier curtains (3 layers + interlining). Can be cut to length with a hacksaw. Wall-mount or ceiling-mount brackets available. Cons: Less discreet than wire. The track is 25mm deep and visible if not pelmet'd. Fittings are plastic and break if overtightened.

Best for: Van builds where the curtain track is visible and needs to carry heavy thermal curtains.

Ceiling-Mount Aluminium Track (£30-£50)

Van conversion specialists (Van-X, Rainbow Conversions) sell aluminium track specifically designed for campervans. The track is a U-section aluminium extrusion that mounts directly to the van ceiling with self-tapping screws.

Pros: Purpose-designed for vans. Can be curved by cutting V-notches. Accepts standard curtain gliders. Heavier duty than KVARTAL. Cons: More expensive. Requires cutting and filing to fit. Harder to source (specialist suppliers only).

Best for: Professional-looking builds where the curtain runs the full width of the van, including around the windscreen pillars.

Attachment Methods

Velcro (Hook and Loop)

Stick Velcro tape (£3-£5 per roll of 2m) to the van body around the window. Sew the corresponding Velcro to the curtain. Press the curtain onto the Velcro.

Pros: Very secure (curtains will not fall off while driving). No track required. Curtains sit flat against the window for maximum insulation. Cons: Velcro wears out (hook side collects lint, loses grip after 12-18 months). Curtains must be removed to open the window. Installing and removing is slow (10-15 seconds per curtain). The Velcro tape can pull paint off the van body if removed aggressively.

Best for: Cab curtains that are installed for sleeping and removed for driving.

Magnetic Tape

Sew magnetic tape (£8-£15 per roll) into the curtain hem. The magnets hold the curtain to the steel van body.

Pros: Instant attachment. No sticking or aligning. Easy to remove in seconds. No wear (magnets do not degrade). Cons: Less secure than Velcro — curtains can fall off if the van is on an uneven surface and the curtain is heavy. Magnetic tape loses strength over time (expect 3-4 years). The magnets attract metal filings (keep the curtain away from steel swarf).

Best for: Cab curtains that are frequently removed and reinstalled. The black IKEA KVARTAL curtain gliders plus magnetic tape on the curtain hem is a common combination.

Dual Attachment (Track + Velcro/Magnets)

The best approach for full-time van life: hang the curtain on a track for daily use, with Velcro or magnets at the hem to hold the curtain against the window when parked. The track lets you open the curtain during the day. The Velcro/magnets seal the curtain to the window frame at night.

Step-by-Step: Making a Pair of Cab Curtains

Tools needed: Sewing machine (domestic machine handles 3 layers of medium-weight fabric), fabric scissors, measuring tape, pins, iron.

Materials for one cab curtain (driver side):

• Outer fabric: 70cm × 50cm
• Thinsulate interlining: 65cm × 45cm
• Blackout lining: 70cm × 50cm
• Velcro strip: 1m (25mm width)
• Matching thread

Step 1: Pattern Tape newspaper or wrapping paper over the cab window from inside the van. Trace the window shape with a pen, adding 20mm on all sides for seam allowance. Cut the pattern, test-fit it against the window, adjust.

Step 2: Cut fabrics Use the pattern to cut the outer fabric and lining. Cut the Thinsulate 10mm smaller on each side (so it sits inside the seam allowance, not caught in the stitches).

Step 3: Layer the curtain Place the outer fabric face-down on a flat surface. Place the Thinsulate on top, centred. Place the lining face-up on top of the Thinsulate. Pin the three layers together around the edges.

Step 4: Sew the edges Sew around the perimeter with a 15mm seam allowance, leaving a 150mm gap at the bottom for turning. Trim the corners (diagonal cut, 2mm from the stitches) to reduce bulk. Turn the curtain right-side-out through the gap. Push the corners out with a chopstick or knitting needle. Press with a warm iron.

Step 5: Edge stitch Topstitch around the entire perimeter (including the gap, now closed) at 5mm from the edge. This flattens the layers and prevents the interlining from shifting.

Step 6: Attach the track or Velcro If using wire track: sew curtain tape (header tape, £1.50/m from Dunelm or eBay) to the top edge of the curtain. The gliders hook into the tape. Alternatively, use IKEA KVARTAL gliders that clip onto the fabric directly (no header tape needed).

If using Velcro: sew the soft (loop) side of the Velcro to the top edge of the curtain. Stick the hard (hook) side to the van body above the window. For the hem, sew magnetic tape into a pocket stitched across the bottom edge.

Step 7: Fit and adjust Hang the curtain. Check that it covers the window fully. If the curtain gapes at the side, add more Velcro or magnets at the gap point.

Cost Breakdown

The mid-option using Thinsulate, blackout lining, and IKEA KVARTAL track comes to approximately £94 for a full set of cab curtains (driver + passenger). Add £40-£60 for a second set of living area curtains.

Maintaining Van Curtains

Van curtains get damp. The condensation that collects on the window transfers to the curtain. In UK winter, cab curtains are damp every morning.

• Weekly: Hang the curtains outside the van (on a washing line or over the windscreen wipers) for 2-3 hours on a dry day. This prevents mould growth in the interlining.
• Monthly: Wipe the lining with a dilute white vinegar solution (1:10 vinegar to water) to kill mould spores. Do not soak — the interlining takes days to dry.
• Annually: Remove and machine-wash on a gentle cycle (30°C, low spin). Air dry. Do not tumble dry (Thinsulate compresses in heat). After washing, the Thinsulate may need 24-48 hours to fully loft again.

If mould appears inside a curtain (dark spots on the outer fabric), replace it. Washing removes surface mould but the interlining retains spores and will re-grow. Cab curtains cost £50-£100 to replace — cheaper than treating a mould problem in your van.

The Bottom Line

DIY thermal curtains are one of the highest-ROI upgrades for a UK campervan. For approximately £100 and an afternoon with a sewing machine, you get insulation, condensation control, light blocking, and privacy.

Use Thinsulate interlining for the best thermal performance in European winter conditions. Use an IKEA KVARTAL wire track for living area curtains and a magnetic/Velcro hem on cab curtains that need to seal against the window. If you do not own a sewing machine, a local seamstress can make curtains from your fabric for approximately £20-£30 per pair — still significantly cheaper than buying pre-made van curtains.