The North Coast 500 is Scotland's answer to Route 66 — 516 miles of coastal road wrapping around the top of the Scottish Highlands. It has become the UK's most popular campervan road trip, and for good reason: white sand beaches that look like the Caribbean, mountain passes that rival the Alps, and some of the best wild camping spots in Europe.
The catch? Everyone and their uncle has the same idea between May and September. The route gets gridlocked with motorhomes, campsites book out weeks in advance, and the midges in summer are biblical.
This itinerary runs the route clockwise from Inverness over 7 days, with specific overnight parking spots, wild camping alternatives, and honest advice on where to avoid the crowds.
Day 1: Inverness to Ullapool (57 miles)
Pick up supplies in Inverness — Tesco at Inshes Retail Park has a big car park for last-minute stock-ups. Head west on the A835 through the Black Isle. The first proper stop is Rogie Falls (free car park, short walk to a waterfall where you might see salmon leaping).
Lunch: The Black Isle Bar in Dingwall — wood-fired pizzas and local craft beer.
Overnight: Broomfield Holiday Park in Ullapool (£25 for two with electric). Book ahead in summer. If you want to wild camp, continue 10 minutes north to the Loch Broom Shore area — look for flat pull-ins off the single-track road past the harbour, making sure you're not blocking any gates.
Cost today: £30 (fuel £10, food £15, site £5 share)
Day 2: Ullapool to Durness (84 miles)
The road from Ullapool to Durness is the most dramatic section of the entire route. The A835 climbs over the Corrieshalloch Gorge (stop for the suspension bridge viewpoint — it's free and takes 10 minutes).
Continue to Inverewe Garden (National Trust, £14.50 entry). Skip it if the weather is fine — the garden is stunning but you're here for the Highlands, not rhododendrons. Instead, push on to Gruinard Bay for lunch. The beach here has white sand and turquoise water that looks tropical on a sunny day.
The single-track road through Gairloch and Poolewe demands patience. Use passing places. Let locals overtake you. The sheep will not move for your van.
Wild camping: Pull off just before Lochinver onto the minor road towards Inverkirkaig. There's a flat grassy area overlooking the loch about half a mile down. No facilities. Take your rubbish out.
Campsite fallback: Sango Sands Oasis Camp Site in Durness (£30 with electric). Perched on cliffs above the beach. Book ahead.
Cost today: £35
Day 3: Durness to Thurso (70 miles)
Smoo Cave is 5 minutes from Durness — a sea cave with a waterfall inside. Free to enter, takes 30 minutes. The guided boat tour into the inner chamber (£8) is worth it on a dry day.
Drive east along the north coast. The Kyle of Tongue is a beautiful sea loch with a causeway crossing. Stop at the Tongue Viewpoint for photos.
Lunch: The Crask Inn — a remote pub halfway between nowhere and nothing. Good soup and sandwiches. Cash only.
Overnight: Thurso Camping and Caravanning Club Site (£15 for members). If you're not a member, the Pentland Hotel in Thurso lets campervans park in their car park for £10 a night with use of the bar and toilets.
Cost today: £30
Day 4: Thurso to Wick (65 miles)
This morning, drive to John O'Groats (the actual northernmost point of mainland Britain). Park at the John O'Groats car park (£5 all day). Walk down to the famous signpost. Take your photo. Done.
Skip the gift shop. Instead, drive 5 miles west to Dunnet Head — the actual northernmost point of the British mainland (the John O'Groats sign is marketing, not geography). The lighthouse viewpoint is free and often has puffins in June and July.
Lunch: The Bistro at the Bay in Castletown — fresh seafood, reasonably priced.
Afternoon: Drive to Whaligoe Steps (free parking, 330 steps down a cliff face to a tiny harbour). It's a steep walk but the geology is spectacular.
Overnight: Wick Caravan and Camping Park (£22 with electric). Alternatively, park at Noss Head lighthouse — a quiet spot overlooking the sea. No facilities, but free and usually undisturbed.
Cost today: £35
Day 5: Wick to Golspie (55 miles)
Head south down the east coast. Stop at Dunrobin Castle (£15 entry, grounds are spectacular). The falconry display at 11:30 and 14:30 is included. One of the most underrated castles in Scotland.
Lunch: The Castle Restaurant in Brora — good fish and chips.
Overnight: Golspie Caravan Park (£20 with electric). If wild camping, the Loch Fleet area has several discreet spots along the minor road on the south shore — arrive late, leave early.
Cost today: £40
Day 6: Golspie to Inverness (74 miles)
A shorter driving day. Follow the A9 south. Stop at Carn Liath (a free broch — Iron Age roundhouse right next to the road). Quick stop, fascinating history.
Then Dunrobin Castle if you missed it yesterday, or Cawdor Castle (£13) if castles are your thing.
Lunch: The Rilean Restaurant in Tain — excellent Scottish produce.
Afternoon: Drive to the Chanonry Point dolphin viewing spot near Fortrose. At high tide, bottlenose dolphins come within metres of the shore. Best viewing is 2 hours either side of high tide — check a tide table before you go.
Overnight: Back in Inverness. Park at the Inverness Leisure Centre car park (free overnight, no signs restricting campervans). Or use Bught Park Caravan Site (£28 with electric) for a proper shower.
Cost today: £40
Day 7: Inverness to Home
Head home, but take the long way. The A82 through Loch Ness is more scenic than the A9. Stop at Urquhart Castle (£13) for the classic Loch Ness photo. Or skip the entry fee and park at the Loch Ness viewpoint at Strone — free, less crowded, same view.
Breakfast: The Mustard Seed in Inverness does an excellent full Scottish breakfast (£14).
What to Pack
- Midge repellent — Smidge or Avon Skin So Soft. The midges on the west coast are relentless in June-August. Don't skimp on this.
- Waterproof jacket — you will use it even in July. A three-layer shell like the Rab Downpour Plus handles Scottish conditions.
- Mosquito net for your van windows — magnetic screens are £15 on Amazon and make the difference between a good night's sleep and a midge-infested misery.
- Cash — several pubs and cafes on the NC500 don't take card. The Crask Inn, The Kylesku Hotel bar, and most farm shop cafes are cash-only.
- Full tank of diesel — between Ullapool and Durness there are exactly two petrol stations. Do not pass one if you're below half a tank.
Where NOT to Park
The NC500 has a serious problem with campervans parking irresponsibly. The Scottish Government introduced the Motorhome Waste Disposal and Parking Management Scheme in 2024 to crack down on it. Here's where not to park:
- Laybys with double yellow lines — enforced by ANPR cameras on the A9 and A82
- In front of gates, farm entrances, or forestry access roads
- Single-track passing places — this is a particularly bad habit on the NC500
- Beasdale and Morar areas near Mallaig — the local community has explicitly banned overnight campervan parking
- Anywhere with a "No Overnight Camping" sign — they mean it, and the fines start at £200
NC500 Budget Breakdown
| Item | Budget | Mid-Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fuel | £120 | £150 | 516 miles, ~25mpg in a van |
| Campsites | £105 | £200 | Mix of wild camping and paid sites |
| Food | £100 | £200 | Self-catering saves a lot |
| Attractions | £30 | £70 | Castle entry fees add up |
| Total | £355 | £620 | Per person if sharing fuel |
Best Time to Go
June is the sweet spot — longest daylight (18+ hours in the far north), decent weather odds, and the midges are only just getting started. September is a close second: fewer campervans, golden light, and midges have died off.
Avoid August if you can — the NC500 is gridlocked with hire motorhomes, campsites are full, and the midges are at their peak.
Winter (November-February) — fewer than 7 hours of daylight, many visitor facilities closed, snow on the higher passes. Only attempt if you have winter tyres and a diesel heater.
NC500 Campsite Booking Tips
- Book campsites 4-6 weeks ahead in summer. The popular ones (Sango Sands, Broomfield, Shore Caravan Site in Gairloch) fill up 2+ months in advance.
- Call instead of booking online — many NC500 campsites are old-school and don't update their online availability
- The Camping and Caravanning Club sites (Thurso, Inverness) are cheaper for members (£15 vs £25+) and usually have space
- If everywhere is booked, try Park4Night (app) for overnight pub stops — the Crask Inn, The Kylesku Hotel, and the Old School House in Dunnet all let campervans stay for free if you buy dinner
