Introduction
The Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales are England's two greatest national parks, and the drive between them is one of the most spectacular in the UK. Over 100 miles of dramatic scenery — taking you from the central lakes of Windermere and Ullswater, through the Eden Valley, over the wild North Pennines, and into the heart of the Yorkshire Dales.
This guide covers the complete route in 4 days, with overnight stops, wild camping tips, and the must-see spots that make this one of the UK's most rewarding van life road trips.
Quick navigation: Route Overview | Day-by-Day Itinerary | Wild Camping | Must-Sees | Driving Tips | Seasonal Guide
Route Overview
The full route covers approximately 130 miles, with the bulk of the drive between Penrith and Hawes. Most vans take 4-5 days to do it justice.
Distance and Driving Time
| Leg | Distance | Driving Time | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lake District base → Penrith | 25-30 miles | 1 hour | A66 to A6 |
| Penrith → Alston | 18 miles | 40 min | A686 — most scenic road in England |
| Alston → Middleton-in-Teesdale | 20 miles | 50 min | B6277 over the Pennines |
| Middleton → Richmond | 30 miles | 1 hour | B6276 — dramatic valley |
| Richmond → Hawes | 35 miles | 1 hour 15 min | A684 through Reeth |
| Hawes → Settle | 25 miles | 50 min | B6255 over to Settle |
| Settle → Grassington | 18 miles | 40 min | B6265 — classic Dales drive |
When to Drive
The A686 between Penrith and Alston (described as the most scenic road in England) winds through the Eden Valley, with views of the Lake District fells, the North Pennines, and on a clear day, the Solway Firth and Scottish mountains. Allow at least 2 hours for the 18 miles, including stops.
The B6277 over Stainmore (between Alston and Middleton) is one of the highest roads in England. Snow is possible from October to April. Check weather before driving.
The B6265 from Settle to Grassington is the classic Dales drive. The road crosses some of England's most photographed dry-stone walls and limestone pavements.
Day-by-Day Itinerary
Day 1: Lake District → Penrith → Alston
Morning: Lake District Base to Penrith
- Leave Ambleside or Grasmere early (8am) to beat the crowds
- Stop at Aira Force waterfall (£5 parking, NT members free) for a 30-minute walk
- Continue via the A66 to Penrith — a market town with all supplies, including a Tesco Extra for last-minute camping gear
Lunch: Penrith
- The George Hotel — historic coaching inn, excellent sandwiches
- Café4 — modern cafe with great coffee and homemade cakes
- Booths — if you want to stock up on supplies for the next few days
Afternoon: The A686 to Alston This is the day's highlight. The A686 between Penrith and Alston is officially the most scenic road in England (according to the AA). The road winds through the Eden Valley with views of:
- Cross Fell (the highest peak in the Pennines, 893m)
- The Lake District fells to the west
- The North Pennines AONB to the east
- The South Tyne Valley below
Stops along the way:
- Megalong viewpoint — pull-off with views of the Eden Valley
- Melmerby village — one of the prettiest villages in Cumbria
- Langwathby — small village with a traditional pub
Overnight: Alston
- Alston Caravan & Motorhome Club Site — £15/night, full facilities, right on the South Tyne
- The Cumberland Hotel — allows overnight campervan parking in their car park for £10 (with pub meal)
- Wild camping: Pull off onto the minor road towards Garrigill — several flat pull-ins with views of the Pennines. Quiet, no facilities.
Day 2: Alston → Middleton-in-Teesdale
Morning: Stainmore Pass The drive from Alston to Middleton crosses the Stainmore Pass at 420m — one of the highest roads in England. On a clear day, you can see both the Lake District and the North York Moors from the summit.
Key Stops:
- Stainmore Summit — pull-off for photos, view of the North Pennines
- B6277 — the road itself is the attraction, winding through high moorland
- Langdon Beck — small hamlet in the North Pennines, excellent walking
Lunch: Middleton-in-Teesdale
- The Teesdale Hotel — historic coaching inn, good pub food
- High Force Hotel — 5 miles north, spectacular waterfall nearby
- Raby Estate Farm Shop — local produce, perfect for a picnic
Afternoon: High Force and Cauldron Snout
High Force Waterfall (one of England's highest at 21m):
- £3 parking
- 30-minute walk to the falls
- Stunning in spate (after rain), quieter in summer
Cauldron Snout (5 miles north of High Force):
- Free parking
- 1-hour walk along the Tees
- More dramatic than High Force, less accessible
Overnight: Middleton-in-Teesdale
- River Tees Caravan Site — £18/night, basic facilities, beautiful setting
- The Moorcock Inn — allows overnight parking for £8 (with meal)
- Wild camping: Pull off onto the minor road north of Holwick — there are several discrete spots overlooking the Tees
Day 3: Middleton → Richmond → Hawes
Morning: Swaledale The B6276 from Middleton enters Swaledale — one of the most beautiful of the Yorkshire Dales. The valley is known for:
- Traditional field barns (hundreds of stone barns, many now converted to holiday lets)
- Dry-stone walls (England's best examples)
- Lead mining heritage (visible in old smelt mills and chimneys)
- The River Swale (excellent wild swimming in summer)
Key Stops:
- Keld — tiny village, jumping-off point for the Pennine Way
- Reeth — picture-perfect Dales village, excellent pubs and cafes
- Gunnerside — lead mining history, beautiful stone buildings
Lunch: Reeth
- The Dalesman — classic Dales pub, good food
- Harkers — cafe and tea room, excellent cakes
- The Copper Kettle — small cafe, perfect for a quick bite
Afternoon: Richmond and Castle
- Richmond Castle (£6 entry) — one of England's finest Norman castles, dramatic cliff-top setting
- Richmond Falls — free, beautiful walk along the River Swale
- Green Howards Museum (£7) — military history, well-presented
Overnight: Hawes
Hawes is the main town in upper Wensleydale and a good base for day 4.
| Site | Price | Facilities |
|---|---|---|
| Dales Edge Caravan & Motorhome Club Site | £16/night | Full facilities, walking distance to town |
| The Crown Hotel | £8/night (car park) | Pub, no facilities |
| The Fountain Hotel | £5/night (car park) | Historic pub, quiet overnight |
| Wild camping: Hardraw Force area | Free | 2 miles from Hawes, no facilities, beautiful |
Day 4: Hawes → Settle → Grassington
Morning: Wensleydale and Hardraw Force
- Hardraw Force (£3) — England's highest single-drop waterfall above ground (30m)
- Aysgarth Falls — series of waterfalls on the River Ure, free, walkable from the village
- Wensleydale Creamery (£7) — the home of Wensleydale cheese, tour and shop
Lunch: Hawes
- The Crown Hotel — classic pub food
- Herriot's Cafe — themed after the famous James Herriot vet books
- The Chippie — proper Yorkshire fish and chips
Afternoon: The Settle-Carlisle Railway and the Three Peaks The drive from Hawes to Settle crosses the southern Yorkshire Dales. The area is dominated by the Yorkshire Three Peaks (Pen-y-ghent, Whernside, Ingleborough).
Key Stops:
- Ribblehead Viaduct — one of England's most photographed railway viaducts
- Horton-in-Ribblesdale — village at the foot of Pen-y-ghent
- Stainforth Force — beautiful waterfall, 30-minute walk from Stainforth village
Overnight: Grassington
- Mossdale Caravan Park — £18/night, full facilities, walking distance to Grassington
- The Foresters Arms — pub, allows overnight parking for £10
- Wild camping: Pull off onto the minor road to Kilnsey — flat field area with views over Wharfedale
Wild Camping
Wild camping in the Yorkshire Dales is officially prohibited (as in all of England), but there are well-tolerated areas where campervans are regularly seen.
Tolerated Spots (UK Campervan Community Tested)
| Location | Type | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Moorcock Inn area | Pull-off near pub | Free if you eat, pub toilets OK to use |
| Garrigill road | Forest track pull-ins | Quiet, no facilities, views |
| Holwick road | Small layby | Views of the Tees, 2-3 vans max |
| B6277 summit layby | High moorland layby | 1 van, exposed, incredible views |
| Reeth area | Village edge | Some pubs welcome overnight |
| Hawes outskirts | Minor road | Quiet lanes near Hardraw |
| Ribblesdale | Lane to Horton | Quiet, exposed, popular with climbers |
Rules to Follow
✅ DO:
- Arrive late (8-10pm), leave early (8-9am)
- Park discreetly — not blocking gates, driveways, or farm tracks
- Take all rubbish with you
- Use chemical toilets, not roadside spots
- Buy a pint or meal at the nearest pub to show appreciation
❌ DON'T:
- Put out chairs, tables, or awnings
- Play music or run generators
- Stay more than 1 night in the same spot
- Camp within sight of residential properties
- Light fires (illegal in the Dales without permission)
Must-Sees on the Route
Natural Attractions
| Site | Location | Cost | Why It's Special |
|---|---|---|---|
| Aira Force | Near Penrith | £5 (NT) | 65ft waterfall, woodland walks |
| High Force | Middleton | £3 | England's largest waterfall |
| Cauldron Snout | North of High Force | Free | 200-yard waterfall, dramatic |
| Hardraw Force | Hawes | £3 | England's highest single-drop |
| Aysgarth Falls | Aysgarth | Free | Triple-step waterfall, family-friendly |
| Malham Cove | Near Settle | Free | Huge limestone amphitheatre, Harry Potter filming location |
| Gordale Scar | Near Malham | Free | Massive limestone gorge |
Historic Sites
| Site | Location | Cost | Why It's Special |
|---|---|---|---|
| Penrith Castle | Penrith | Free | Ruins, red sandstone |
| Alston Moor | Alston | Free | England's highest market town |
| Richmond Castle | Richmond | £6 | Norman castle, 900 years old |
| Reeth | Reeth | Free | Traditional Dales village |
| Bolton Castle | Near Leyburn | £10 | 14th century castle, still inhabited |
| Settle | Settle | Free | Victorian market town |
Quirky Stops
| Stop | Location | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Cicestrian Cycles | Hawes | Vintage bike shop, workshop tours |
| Dales Countryside Museum | Hawes | Free, local heritage |
| Wensleydale Creamery | Hawes | Cheese factory, tours, cafe |
| Catbells | Lake District (start) | Easy fell walk, kids friendly |
| Ullswater Steamers | Glenridding | Steamer cruise, beautiful views |
Driving Tips
Roads You'll Encounter
| Road Type | Difficulty | What to Expect |
|---|---|---|
| A686 (Penrith-Alston) | Easy-moderate | Twisty but well-maintained, large vehicles OK |
| B6277 (Stainmore) | Moderate | Higher altitude, snow possible |
| B6276 (Middleton-Richmond) | Moderate | Narrow in places, passing places |
| A684 (Richmond-Hawes) | Easy | Main A-road, well-maintained |
| B6255 (Hawes-Settle) | Easy-moderate | Slightly narrow, big vehicles OK |
| B6265 (Settle-Grassington) | Easy | Good Dales road |
Van-Specific Considerations
⚠️ WARNINGS:
- A686 has steep gradients — 1 in 4 climb in places, take care in winter
- B6277 Stainmore Pass — closed in heavy snow (October-April possible)
- Some Dales lanes are single-track with passing places — be ready to reverse
- Height restrictions — Richmond has a low bridge, check before entering town
- Yorkshire Dales National Park has more 6.5t vehicle restrictions than the Lake District
Winter Driving (October-April)
- Snow chains required for some roads in winter
- Snow on the B6277 can close the road for days at a time
- Ice on smaller lanes is common in early morning
- Reduced visibility on the high moors — fog, low cloud
- Diesel gelling — keep fuel tank above half in cold weather
Fuel and Supplies
| Town | Fuel Available | Other |
|---|---|---|
| Penrith | Tesco, Morrisons | Best place to fill up before the route |
| Alston | Petrol station (limited hours) | Last cheap fuel before the high roads |
| Middleton | No fuel | Fill up before arriving |
| Richmond | BP, Texaco | Good shops, supermarkets |
| Hawes | One petrol station (limited) | Expensive fuel, fill up in Richmond or Leyburn |
| Settle | Multiple stations | Reasonable prices |
| Grassington | No fuel | Limited, fill up in Skipton or Settle |
Seasonal Guide
Summer (June-August)
Pros: Longest days (5am-9pm in Yorkshire), best walking weather, all attractions open Cons: Crowded (Dales attracts 8+ million visitors/year), expensive campsites, traffic on the A66 and A1 Verdict: Best avoided July-August. Late May and June are ideal.
Spring (March-May)
Pros: Lambs in the fields (April-May), bluebells in the woods, fewer crowds, wildflowers in the meadows Cons: Some campsites not open before Easter, weather still cold at night Verdict: Excellent time to visit. April-May is the sweet spot.
Autumn (September-November)
Pros: Autumn colours (October), quiet, lower prices, dramatic skies Cons: Shorter days, weather can turn, some campsites close after October Verdict: Best time for photography. Late September-early October is perfect.
Winter (December-February)
Pros: Empty roads, snow on the hills, dramatic scenery, lowest prices Cons: Short days (8am-4pm), snow can close passes, some facilities closed Verdict: Excellent for experienced van lifers. Need winter tyres for some roads.
Budget
Daily Budget Breakdown
| Expense | Budget | Mid-Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fuel | £15 | £25 | 80-100 miles/day |
| Food | £15 | £30 | Self-catering saves significantly |
| Campsite | £15 | £20 | Mix of CAMC and wild camping |
| Activities | £5 | £25 | Castles, walks are mostly free |
| Total | £50 | £100 | Per day, two people |
Free Activities
- All walking (Lake District has 3,000+ km of paths)
- Hardraw Force (if you don't mind the £3 honesty box)
- All Dales villages
- All public viewpoints
- Wild swimming in the River Swale (summer)
- Cycling on the quiet Dales roads
Related Guides
- Wales 14-Day Grand Tour — Ultimate Campervan Itinerary
- NC500 7-Day Itinerary
- New Forest Van Life Guide
- Anglesey Coastal Route for Campervans
- Wild Camping Laws UK Explained
Last updated: August 2026. Based on multiple trips through the Lake District and Yorkshire Dales in all seasons. All campsite prices verified for 2026. Check weather and road conditions before driving in winter — the B6277 Stainmore Pass can close without warning.
